One of the first trails I explored after returning to hiking in 2007 was the Centenary Trail. I discovered it with my group preparing to climb Mount Kilimanjaro for the Charles-Bruneau Foundation. At the time, I lived in the Bellefeuille area of Saint-Jérôme and began exploring the Laurentians more than ever before.
Hiking and biking in the summer, followed by snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in the winter—it was pure joy. The Laurentians offered an amazing outdoor playground, and my adventures began as soon as I stepped out of my house. I had plenty of options without always needing to drive.
When it came to hiking, the Centenary Trail was always special to me, and I returned many times, in every season. Each season gives the trail its own charm: the fresh green and flowing water of spring, the vibrant greenery of summer, the fiery colors of autumn, and the icy rock walls and deep, sparkling snow of winter.
I was always drawn to this trail and felt at peace and in harmony with nature there. That’s why, during the first season of Alexis the Hiker, I made it a point to film an episode on this trail.
A 400-Meter Elevation Gain Along La Vache Noire Ridge
Created in 1995 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Mont-Tremblant National Park, the 9 km Centenary Trail offered diverse terrain, viewpoints, and vegetation. Starting near the La Diable Bridge, located 500 meters from the welcome center, it ended at the La Sablonnière campground.
Its only drawback was that it wasn’t a loop—you had to walk 3.2 km along the road to return to the starting point. With a 400-meter elevation gain, the trail traversed La Vache Noire Ridge. It could be hiked in either direction, but the most spectacular section was near the La Diable Bridge.
The Most Spectacular Section is Now Inaccessible
You may have noticed I’m speaking in the past tense. That’s because a new landowner recently prohibited hiker access to the section of the trail where the park previously held a right-of-way. This closure affects the most impressive part of the trail. Mont-Tremblant National Park had no choice but to shut down access entirely.
I discovered this unfortunate news in February 2022 when I visited the trail for the 50th time with a photographer friend, intending to capture its beauty one last time. Despite the prohibition, I decided to venture there for a farewell hike. The news hit me hard—it was heartbreaking.
This now-inaccessible section featured an open hardwood forest with stunning views of the valley below. In spring, streams overflowed, waterfalls echoed through the air, and moss blanketed the rocks beautifully. Though the elevation of La Vache Noire was modest, every friend I brought there was surprised by the steep climb, especially at the start when they weren’t warmed up.
Now a Nearly 14 km Hike
Going forward, the trail will be an out-and-back hike starting from the campground, totaling about 14 kilometers. Unfortunately, it no longer includes the section offering the best panoramas, such as views of the La Diable River’s winding path and the Laurentian Mountains. Is it still worth it?
On that final hike in this part of the trail, I made the most of every moment. Each snowshoe step through the powder felt intentional. With a bright blue sky, dazzling sunshine, and bitter cold (-25°C), I was well-equipped. I carried two insulated water bottles and packed a down jacket and hand warmers, just in case—but I didn’t end up using them, as is often the case. It’s always better to be prepared!
Photographing the trail was a joy. My cameraman friend, Raphaël, kept the energy lively with his stories. Together, we brainstormed shot ideas and discussed plans for the upcoming season of Alexis the Hiker, where he serves as director of photography.
Every step demanded effort, but we persisted. Each bend in the trail revealed something new: a steep slope, a massive boulder, a towering hemlock, or ferns encased in ice. Despite the beauty, the cold and deep snow eventually slowed us down. With frequent stops and the weight of our equipment, we decided not to push for the summit.
Still, I’m incredibly grateful to have captured some stunning winter photos of this legendary trail, marking my 50th visit.
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Winter Hiking Gear Suggestions
Cyclone ECO Running Vest - 10L
Micro Trail Hiking Poles – Kids
Pole tip protector for hiking poles